Home / Uncategorized / How to Use the 60º Diamond Ruler to Make a Table Topper | Shabby Fabrics Tutorials

How to Use the 60º Diamond Ruler to Make a Table Topper | Shabby Fabrics Tutorials

Hi! It's Jen from Shabby Fabrics I'm gonna teach you today how to make this adorable table topper

SEE MORE DETAILS BELOW:

We're using the Roly Poly Snowman Collection from Maywood Studio and a really neat ruler by Creative Grids This is the 60 Degree Diamond Ruler and it does a variety of things Inside the ruler itself you'll be getting a guide that gives you all kinds of options The featured project, which is right here, is what we'll be doing together today and we just thought it was really fun with this collection all the beautiful gradient of blue I'll be using the Spinning Mat as well

You'll be seeing why that's really helpful with this project Of course a rotary cutter, some nice sharp patchwork pins, and our Confetti Cotton which is a 50-weight cotton, and I'll be using color 101 today So let's jump right into the project The first thing you'll be doing is choosing six fabrics and sewing them offset so that you are – because you'll be cutting at an angle – you're sewing them together and I'll just show you the back side You're gonna press your seams open

So we've sewn that ahead of time, and notice how we've staggered the strips just so that you're saving some fabric, and they do mention that inside the instruction booklet that comes with this particular ruler Now just so that we kind of stay overhead with our camera, I'll just kind of fold this up and kind of keep this so that you can see how we're gonna approach this project Once you have your six strips sewn together, your seams are open, we're gonna look at our ruler real fast And in order to orient yourself with the ruler, notice the Creative Grids emblem Go ahead and have that on the upside and that that is also mimicked here inside your booklet

You can see that little logo here and that logo here We're going to start on the right side of the strip set and we're just going to lay this down so that the bottom of the ruler is running right along the bottom of our strip set Now I want to point out on the ruler itself you do have some horizontal lines here and also kind of some other lines running in a different angle One of the things that I was looking for when I put the ruler down on the strip set is I thought that the lines here would be lining up with my seam allowances and they actually don't Now this ruler can be dealing with a variety of strips of different widths

It doesn't just have to be one-and-a-half That's what we're using for this project, but this ruler will work with varying strip widths, and so for that reason don't worry about the fact that those lines don't line up with your seam allowances All you're looking for at this point is that you've positioned your ruler so that when you make this cut you are going to clear your selvage and you are lined up on the bottom here completely parallel, and I'm going to make that first cut So now we have established our angle Now this is where the spinning mat comes in

Now my project is off of that so I'm just gonna kind of fold it up I don't want to really disturb my project right now I want everything to stay steady I'm just going to rotate that around Our strip set unit, since we started with one-and-a-half- inch strips, is now six-and-a-half-inches

This particular ruler, this guide, you can see the marks here See that six-and-a-half? I'm going to slide this down until this is – that line is running parallel right on top of the end of my strip set and the bottom of the ruler is right along that See how that just nestles right into that corner? Now I know I'm at the right space I'm going to pull it just a little bit closer to myself so I can see it, and I'm going to begin to cut Now I'm going to cut straight here and move that

Notice there's a little notch right here I'm just going to go ahead and get that and there's my first set You will need a total of six to do the project Let's do that again So if I put this all the way to the end that's eight-and-a-half

It's going to be too big So let's just slide that down again until it's six-and-a-half here I'm lined up here I double-check, we're good to go, clean that off, and there's our next one And let me do one more

And we're going to sew those three together Basically, since it's made up of six sections, it's basically two hemispheres; three on the one side and three on the other Now you would of course continue cutting and you'll get two more out of this You'll need to do two strip sets just like this and out of that second strip set is where you'll be able to get the sixth – basically – section What I like about that is if you do make a mistake, maybe you mis-measure, you'll have plenty of room to be able to cut more than one out of your next strip set

So let's put this aside for now Of course you'd have six, but let's just do one half of it at a time, which is how this will go together So naturally – I'll just move that right there – naturally you're going to lay this project out and make sure the orientation is what you want We want that white coming together in the center, or whatever color you might be using, like this So that looks right, right? We always look at our project, that looks correct, we're going to now sew this together

Now you would expect that when I go Right Sides Together (RST) like this that I'm going to sew all the way from beginning to end, but keep in mind, this section here is a set inseam or what some people call a Y seam Now if you don't like Y seams and I don't have a lot of experience with that this is totally doable and just stay with me and I'll show you how You don't have to be intimidated by Y seams at all It's very straightforward If you use a couple marks on your fabric and you just have some good habits, Y seams or set-in seams, however you call them, are really no big deal, so again, this is how our project is going to be oriented

For now I'll put that aside and we'll place these Right Sides Together I absolutely want to start in my center because you want that confluence to come together perfectly, right in that point So we're definitely going to start sewing here, but it's here where we have to stop a quarter-of-an-inch before the end, and this is where the small 25" x 65" ruler comes in so handy

I have my quarter-inch mark that I will lay right here, right along that line, and I'm just going to draw right here, and I know when my needle approaches this place, I'm going to stop, reverse, and come back and reinforce that area because that's the area that will open up and create the Y seam in just a little bit So because we're going to be starting with a point here I would definitely recommend a starter strip If you're unfamiliar with the starter strip, basically it's just a scrap of fabric that you sew on initially to get the machine going and then I will be coming in right after that with my fabric, sewing a standard quarter-inch seam allowance, coming all the way down to my line Stop, reverse, reinforce, and then stop but don't go past that line So let's go to the sewing machine and we'll do that right now

So as I approach my spot, I know with the Bernina, as I use my thread cutter, it actually takes one extra stitch If you don't have that, go absolutely to your line, reverse, go back, and then come to your line and stop Because I know this machine and I know what this machine is gonna do, I'm stopping just a breath before, I'm gonna back up, come, and I'm gonna do my thread cutter here because it's gonna take one more stitch Now that's unique to Bernina, but the point is that my final stitch was on that line and not beyond I can't have it go past that

So I'll cut off that starter strip and I'm definitely going to be using that again Now I want to point out one thing inside these instructions As you can imagine, let's look at this seam allowance right now Where does our seam naturally want to go? Of course toward the white You have multiple seams here

Pressing back on top of those seams creates an unnecessary bulk and an unbalanced bulk It's natural that those seams are going to want to press through the white I want to point out something inside the booklet that comes with the pattern You and I as quilters are used to arrows indicating the direction of pressing Notice how inside the booklet it's telling you to go toward these multi strips over here

I think what they were trying to instruct us is basically sew these units together I do not believe the arrows, which are not talked about inside the guide, are supposed to be pressing arrows So I'm just, as you can see already, this seam wants to go toward the white – that's natural – and we're going to go with that Let me get my iron heated up here So let's go ahead and set that seam

And I love how when I use my Frixion Pen my lines disappear If you don't want them there then definitely use a Frixion Pen because they will disappear with heat So there's our first section Now just like before, exactly the same, you'll go Right Sides Together, again marking your quarter-inch and sewing, stopping, and reinforcing When I come back I'll have this half done and I'll have the other half done and we'll continue with the project

So I have my three sections sewn together, of course whenever you are pressing seams you have these little bit of the dog ears Just take your small ruler and trim that away, and I've sewn the other three sections together ahead of time, so now we will sew those two halves together Of course Right Sides, let's match up our points I've went ahead and pre-marked again with my Frixion Pen down here my quarter-inch seam, but up here – well first before I get too carried away, I definitely want to point out how that good pressing has this beautiful interlocking seam right there in the center everything is going to come together just beautifully, but I wanted to point out how down here my Frixion Pen is gonna be very difficult to see We have a Uchinda White Marking Pen that I love to use especially when it's on anything dark where I really can't see my Frixion Pen, and I like that it's an erasable

It erases with moisture, it erases with heat, so again I'll be using my small ruler and marking with the pen The pen's mark isn't immediate It takes a second or two to appear, so I'll go ahead and mark that right now And there it is I went over it a couple times so hopefully you can see that, and I'm just going to put a pin here

Now just a reminder As much as you're gonna want to start here, we're starting at the line and beyond, and you want to start stitching and backstitch and not go past that line That needs to stay open for our Y seam and we're gonna come right through here We're going to be using the Purple Thing If that's new to you, it's gonna help me keep those seams from rolling over

I want those seams to stay nice and flat So let's take that to the machine right now So I'm gonna confirm I'm where I want to be I'm gonna stitch just a few stitches, reinforce, and here we go So when I use this Purple Thing it's just to keep that seam down

I don't want that to roll because sometimes the presser foot gets underneath here and it makes it want to roll I want that to lay nice and flat and stay So I use it as I need to If I see something's about to roll I'll get in there See how it could be very easy for that to do that? Let's keep that down

Now when you're on the underside you just have to keep checking, right, I just kind of keep looking and once I see that seam I often will put my finger there or you could use this side It's a bigger surface area to keep that down So let's keep – see that wanted to roll like that Let's check the next one It's good and flat

Okay, one more I get ready to stop, back up and I know my Bernina is going to take one more step With this seam here as you can imagine you've got a lot of bulk over here and a lot of bulk here When you have that situation just press that seam open Now the next step after we do our pressing will be of course the Setting Triangles and that's where we'll be getting our Spinning Mat out again

We'll be getting our template out again, our ruler, and we'll be cutting those, so I love that that ruler is both things It's not only the 60 Degree Diamonds but it's also the 120 Degrees Setting Triangles And let's press this open Some of those seams there wanted to close up – we wanted that to close up, there we go – okay so let's see what we've got I always like to press from the backside and let's press again from the top

Look how it all came together, isn't that beautiful? That is just absolutely of course it's always good sewing, good pressing, but that ruler is so good and that is really just a perfect point right there in the middle and that's what we're all going for, right? Now we need to cut our Setting Triangles, so let's move this aside for now and we'll get our fabric out Now in her instruction booklet she talks specifically about the 120 Degree Side Setting Triangles The thing I know about Side Setting Triangles is you can always make them a little bit bigger and cut them down which is exactly what we're going to do So we'll get our strips out She has you cut them to four-and-a-quarter-inches

Now let's just talk again about our ruler and I'll show you the sides that we're going to be working with There's the six-and-a-half inch SST – Side Setting Triangle – which if you bring your ruler down on your fabric to that exact mark and you were to cut your setting triangles, you will have exactly the right footprint Or, as she offers you as an option in the pattern, you could push up to that dash line that is sitting right beneath that solid six-and-a-half-inch line, and that's what I would call a buffer That's what we're going to be doing I would rather make the project just a little bit bigger and cut it down than have to have everything so perfectly fit that there is no margin for error

I always like just a little bit of breathing room if we can get that Some projects don't allow for that and in this instance we do so I'm absolutely going to take advantage of that option So let's move this aside for the moment because we will be rotating this project So again, I'm laying my strip out and I'll be able to cut two at a time There's my six-and-a-half-inch, I'm sliding down to the dash line, and let's make sure our fabric is completely stacked over top of itself and you can always cut just one at a time if you want to

I figure let's just cut two at a time So I'm lined up here and here and notice the top of my ruler comes exactly to where my fabric ends so we're going to make a cut I'm just gonna hold on, rotate my mat to a more natural cutting angle, and come in – think I missed that part real quick there we are – now that's two To cut the next one you would just simply open up your fabric I'd encourage you to press out that little fold and then you'll just come in and you'll get a third one

So you'll cut out of that one Width of Fabric (WOF) strip, you'll be able to get three, and out of your second Width of Fabric (WOF) strip you'll be able to get your other three So we've cut those out ahead of time and I'll show you how to do a Y Seam or set-in seam It's not a big deal! Like anything, there's just a process, and once you master the process this just goes together easily and quickly and you don't need to ever hesitate or avoid projects that have Y Seams because they're really not a big deal So as you can see from the project behind me, each one of these has this and that's what kind of completes the shape, so let's just work on one of these together and the process is the same for all six sides of our project So if we look at this, this is going to fit in the slot right here, and remember how we left this opening? All that we have to do is basically we're going to sew one side and then we're going to pivot and sew the other

Now I'm going to flip my project over Remember those things I want to lie flat? Well when they're not on the top I don't really know what's going on there I can't see them So you saw before where I was always having to check and always having to check, so for that reason I'm going to keep them on the top with me so I can absolutely see what's happening Now if you want to go ahead and simply mark that quarter-inch because maybe it's hard to see, right there we can already see that's where – that's our starting point is that line

If you want to make it bolder with your Frixion Pen go ahead and do that But we're going to open this up, I'm going to pivot this away so that that white is lined up with that white I want to make sure you can see that We're just going to pivot away Now it's very important that you start at this point and not deeper, otherwise you're gonna take a little bit of a tuck

If that happens just seam rip it out and start again, it's not a big deal, but the point is you need to have your needle starting right there and not past that or you will take that little tuck So for sure I'm going to definitely put a pin in there because that's a very important starting place and now I've got all kinds of angles going on so it'd be very easy to stretch this out of shape For that reason I just want to pin so that I really am not touching and stretching the fabric at all I don't want to do that because you could distort this project Now when we sew this one, we'll be starting here, we'll go back and reinforce because we're going to be, there's going to be some tension here as we pivot this around to do this section

Here you're going to sew all the way off into here and you can just and this will actually – some of this will get trimmed away Let's go the sewing machine now and we will do this step So when I, whenever I do a set-in seam, the first thing is I just double-check that the end of this is stacked on the top of the end of that fabric And yes, this is kind of in the way and you can try to pivot it out, but the main thing is if I start at this line and sew, I'm not going to be taking that tuck It looks like I'm lined up where I want to be and I'm definitely going to check this and make sure I'm starting at that place

Notice how I manually guide the machine into that and make sure I'm where I want to be and I'm happy with that place I'm going to go forward just a bit – one, two – and I'm gonna go back – one, two – I think I went back one I'm gonna live with that! Here I'm gonna use my little Purple Thing tool to make sure my seams stay down That pin is in my way So, we've got the one half done

Now for this half I definitely want to start on the inside and work my way out I'm more comfortable sewing from here out than I am from there in, so for that reason I'm gonna pivot the project back and notice how I just pivot this around I am able to do that because we left that seam open Again, if you want to have that very clear visual – Where's my quarter? Where am I starting? Where's my needle going down? – By all means use whatever tools you need to help you be successful in your sewing room

You know just because your friend maybe sews things differently than you do, or you take extra steps, you just do whatever works best for you So I'm going to pivot that around and the goal again will be that I keep this out of the way and I start this fabric is stacked right on top of my blue, which we can see that it is, I'm gonna put a pin in here and a couple pins along the way, and we'll just be sewing a nice quarter-inch seam all the way down So I'll use my needle down function this time and I'm not where I want to be Do you see how I went actually behind the line? I'm gonna come back up Hey maybe that moved just where it should be

It's always better for a machine if you use your – there we go it's exactly where I want to be – yes, some of my older machines I can definitely kind of hand-crank them On today's machines it's always best to use the needle down function Let the machine do it If it's not where you want, we track the needle and move the project versus hand- cranking, so I do want to mention that It is where I want it to be

Let's see if I can take two stitches forward and two stitches back this time like I planned last time One, two One, two And now here we go Alright, let's take our pins out and let's see how we did

I think we did a really good job So let's take that to our Pressing Mat Let's see what our seams want to do naturally I have always felt that – and there's definitely exceptions – usually a project tells you how it wants to be pressed just like we saw before, like over here when there were so many seams and it naturally wanted to go to the white; go with that! Looks to me like this is kind of wanting with all of these seams naturally wanting to press toward the whites, because it's simpler There's less resistance there

So we're gonna a hundred percent go with that and let's just flip that over and we'll press from this side But you will put in the other Settings Seams – oh, Setting Triangles – exactly the same So I'll go off-camera right now and when I come back we'll talk about how to square-up our project and finish up our table-topper So our top is completely put together with our Setting Triangles and now we're going to take it to the next step I just want to point out one thing the reason we have the extra white that we will trim away is because, going back to our 60 Degree Diamond Ruler, remember how I talked about in the little instruction booklet that comes with the ruler, they gave you the option of cutting to the six-and-a-half degree side Setting Triangle or that dashed line beneath

We went ahead and did the dashed line beneath which is why we have extra fabric to even trim away If you do decide to go with a six-and-a-half-inch side Setting Triangle mark, there would be nothing to trim away, and I always like to have a little bit of a margin and a fudge factor, I would call it, so that's why ours are beyond the points more than you would expect Now you could square this up at this point but I would recommend at this point putting batting on the back or Fusible Fleece as well as your backing, and quilting it We went ahead with the sample behind us and just stitched in the ditch and in all of these seams and we could do some fun quilting out there if you would choose Once that's completely quilted, then is when we would come in with our ruler because you're going to trim up everything anyway so it's a good time to actually wait and do it in the end, and measuring a quarter-inch out from those points, I'll just line up with my Creative Grids Ruler

I love that there's a nice strong dash line where I absolutely know that I am a quarter-inch away, and we'll just trim that up And you'll, of course, just rotate the project, and again I'll just demonstrate that again Setting my quarter-inch on that point and quarter-inch on this point, checking it twice, then go ahead and trim up the project all the way around all six sides and then you go ahead and bind the project So, isn't this ruler just incredible?! And again, this can work with a variety of strips of different widths, from 15, 2, 2

5, and beyond, so thank you for sharing part of your day with me I love showing you how to make the table topper and I'll see you for the project next time

Source: Youtube