Home / How to / How to Shave with a Safety Razor – Double-Edged Razor Shaving Techniques

How to Shave with a Safety Razor – Double-Edged Razor Shaving Techniques

Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette! In today's video, we discuss how to shave with a double edge safety razor and why you should switch to it in the first place Technology has changed our lives radically in the last century, mostly for the better

However, in terms of shaving, that's not the case Today's dominant shaving method, the cartridge razor, is not at the top because it's the best method but simply because it makes the most money for the manufacturers With aggressive marketing, brands like Gillette or the Dollar Shave Club have taught men that the cartridge razor with more blades is the way to go In reality, the best shavers for men are decades old and sometimes predate sliced bread So I'm talking about the straight razor, the single blade razor and of course, double edge safety razor

So why should you switch from a cartridge system to a DE razor? First of all, its cost Over the course of a year or even 10 years, you spend probably 10 times as much in a cartridge system than you would on a double edge system Now, the big difference with the cartridge system and a DE razor is that you get the handle for the cartridge razors for free but you'll pay anywhere from one to four dollars for each cartridge And if you're like me, that just lasts once or twice, especially if you have thick hair and its painful to shave On the other hand, with a double edge razor, you have to invest 50 bucks or maybe even 100 bucks up front to get all the tools you need but then, you'll only pay pennies for each blade thereafter

The second reason you switch to the DE razor is that you get a much closer shave If you want a buttery smooth baby butt like shave, you need a sharper blade On top of that, a sharp blade really helps to avoid any kinds of razor bumps and skin conditions that you get with blades that are too dull How can you tell a blade is too dull? Well, if it pulls at any point in time when you shave, that means the blade isn't sharp enough Every man has different hair, some is coarse and thick, others are soft and with a DE razor, you can pick exactly the right blade for your hair and your skin type

On top of that, you can change the handles and heads and that angle makes it more or less aggressive and you can find the right combination that works just for your face On the other hand, with a cartridge system like Dollar Shave Club, Gillette mach3, or Fusion, it is just one size fits it all but it truly doesn't fit anyone The third reason people choose double edge safety razors is because they get less irritation Yes, you have to invest in high fat shave creams but with a cartridge razor, they don't really work because they clog up the multitude of blades Now, with the DE razor, you have full control of your blades and they're so inexpensive that you can afford to discard them after each use even though I don't think you even have to do that

Now, let's assume you throw your blade away after each shave, you still produce a whole lot less waste than you would with a cartridge system So switching to a DE system means no clogged land fields and a handle that you can use for a lifetime So obviously, these are big pros for a DE system, so what are the cons? Well, as I mentioned, you have a larger upfront investment and on top of that, you have to learn the right technique, otherwise, you're more likely to get a nick or a cut Of course, it also takes longer than let's say, an electric shave but the result is also a lot better and fortunately, you can easily learn the technique, it's really not a big secret That being said, Rome wasn't built in a day and you're not going to get your perfect shave the first time you use a DE razor

Frankly, in my mind, the only time I could see you use a cartridge system is when you travel by plane because the cartridge razors are TSA approved, single blades are not Personally, I just use an electric shaver when I travel because I can also use that when I shave with a DE razor, I'll talk more about it later in the video Now lately, a lot of new single blade shaving systems have popped up and people who firmly use a cartridge razor seem to be converted Okay, let's take a look at the single edge razor's Oneblade and Supply and how they stack up against DE First up, let me say both are good products and compared to a cartridge system, they're way better, which is why if most people switch from a cartridge system to a Oneblade or Supply system, they're blown away because their shave is better and they spend less money

For example, the Oneblade uses a feather FHS 10 blade which is thicker than a DE blade and costs about 75 cents a piece It used to be really expensive to get a handle and you have to pay anywhere from three to four hundred dollars Now, you're can get a starter handle for just 20 bucks The shave is great with the swivel head of the Oneblade, you get an experience that is very close to a cartridge system, it's very easy but it's much smoother and better at a cost that is lower than a cartridge system but above that of a DE system, especially in the long run Why? While the DE blades cost you anywhere from five to ten cents, maybe a little more for a sharper blade, but nowhere near the 75 cents

On a rating system from 0 to 10 with 10 being the best, I'd rate a DE shaving system as a 9 simply because it's not quite a 10 because it takes a little more time and it takes a little bit of technique The Oneblade system, I would rate it 8 because it's still very good, it's just slightly more expensive than a DE system So what about the Supply razor? It has kind of an injection blade which is from Schick It also costs about 75 cents a blade and there are three different angles so you can adjust how aggressive you want your shave to be but ultimately, it's also more expensive even though the handle just cost about 75 bucks or I think 150 when you get the better ones So because of that, I'd rate the Supply system at an 8 too

What about the system like Bevel? Well, actually that's a double edge razor and the only reason it works so well and doesn't create skin irritation is because they use sharp blades, that's it! Personally, you can achieve that with any kind of DE razor, you don't need the bevel branded products that are more expensive than other options in the market Alright, enough about why you should shave with a DE razor and how it stacks up against other methods, what do you need to shave with a DE razor? So first of all, you need a razor handle that comes with a headm you need the right blades, and you need a high fat shaving cream Don't use those cheap aerosol cans, they won't work You should also use a post shave product such as an aftershave or an aftershave balm simply because they help to soothe your skin You should also invest in a styptic pencil in case you cut yourself because it stops the bleeding

Now, if you want to learn about the 9 most common shaving mistakes, please check out this video here And if you're not sure about what product to choose, we created an over 250 page strong guide book about shaving that covers all different items and we tested hundreds of things just to figure out what's best for the money and best for certain kinds of shave type, skin, and hair type So how do you shave with a double edge safety razor? Well first, I will show you the classic technique of how to get there and then I will show you a much faster way that gives you the same smooth results Whenever you shave with a sharp blade, step number one is always a pre-shave routine I can't emphasize it enough! So what does it mean? Well for one, you can take a hot shower that makes your hair soft

If you don't want a shower, you can use a wet towel The way I do it is I just make a towel wet, put it in the microwave for a minute and that's plenty hot and I put it on my face and let it rest there It's very comforting but it also helps my hair to get soft If that's too much time for you, you can also splash your face with hot water for a minute or two until you can feel your hair is getting soft Step number two, apply shaving cream or shaving lather to your face

If you're in a hurry, I suggest you get shaving cream from a tube, never use aerosol cans because they don't have enough fat You can also use a shaving soap but you'll need a brush to lather it up and it takes a bit more time That being said, using the shaving brush is probably the best way because it puts the lather all around the hair and it also may help to move your hair slightly away from your face which makes the shave easier If you want to learn more about why aerosol cans are so bad, please check out this video here Once you have the shaving cream or a lather on your face, it's time to actually shave

First by this point, you should have loaded up your head with a blade and make sure it's all straight and not in there crooked because you don't want to cut yourself Go with the first passes to remove any excess hair so you can then shave in a second or maybe sometimes a third pass to get that perfectly smooth result When you are just starting out, I always suggest to stand up from the mirror and look at the growth directions of your beard hair before you even start shaving or lathering up If you can't remember how your beard grows, maybe you take a little pen and paper and draw on the directions you think your hair is growing in Honestly, it's very simple, just look at it closely and you'll see it

Why is it important to do that? Well, in the first pass, you want to shave in the direction of your hair grain which is much less stressful on your skin Honestly, every man has a slightly different growth direction and so it's hard to make blanket statements Personally, I've memorized my growth direction so I know exactly what way I have to shave When you make a pass, always ensure that your skin is tight or stretched because if there's loose skin, you're much more likely to cut yourself So what does it mean specifically? Well, I always use my free left hand to stretch my skin just in the area where I'm going to shave next

That can mean pulling your sideburn overhead or you just pull your skin in that area just before the razor blade goes over it Sometimes around your cheeks, you can also just puff your cheeks to get enough air there to make sure the skin is tight In the area below your nose and your mouth, you can also tighten your skin with your muscles or just use your tongue from the inside Depending on the head of your double edge razor, you should hold your handle at an angle of about 30 to 45 degrees You'll hear what the right angle is once you do the pass

When you do the pass, you want to be very gentle on the skin, don't have any strong pressure, just use gravity to slide down on your face Ensure that you make short and slow strokes which are also known as passes When you start, make sure you shave in straight strokes at a 90 degree angle to the blade That way, you're less likely to cut yourself Once you're a little more advanced, you can also have a slight stride which means you go at a slight angle because this kind of movement creates a stronger cutting motion

Alternatively, you could get a handle that is slightly angled so if you pull down your handle straight, it always cuts the hair at an angle, therefore, enhancing the cutting motion just like on a guillotine Frankly, I only suggest those angled heads for people with very thick hair because it makes for a more aggressive razor Now, what's the problem with that? Well, if you have just very thin beard hair, you still get the same result with a less aggressive razor and your skin will thank you for it Once you're done with 1 or 2 strokes, just switch the handle to the other side and use the other blade, repeat once or twice Now, it's time to rinse the blade

You can either do it under running water or in a sink that's filled with water If you feel any kind of pulling or any pain when you shave with a DE razor, it either means that you didn't do a proper pre-shave routine or that your blade is dull Now, if you use shave cream, you can clearly see where you've already shaved Personally, I like to have a little bit of extra shaving cream in my free hand so I can apply it after each pass because you can't have too much shaving cream on your skin when you shave it because it protects it In the beginning, it may be tempting to go over the same area three or four times without reapplying shaving cream but trust me, it's better to have new shaving cream on there every time before you shave

That being said, when you're just learning a technique, everything is going to take you a lot longer and so by the time you make it from your right side to the left side, you may already get this drying feeling on your face Now, you don't want to dry shaving cream because it clogs up and it prevents the skin protection, therefore, if you can feel that it gets a little drier, wet your hand, go over the area again, and maybe reapply a little bit of lather or shaving cream just so everything is fresh before you shave over The tricky areas are usually right underneath your nose and underneath your mouth and again, I use my tongue to puff air to make sure the skin isn't straight in those areas Also, on your jawline, it can be hard to get it smooth all the way along so what I do is I pull up my skin and make sure that this skin here is up here so it's straight it and I can shave it smoothly and I get that smooth result Every man has different problem areas

For example, underneath my right ear, I always have to go in a different direction, otherwise, it doesn't get all the hair The chin is another area where it can be a little bit difficult Again, use your fingers and your face muscles to keep the skin tight and just shave in different directions, always reapplying the shaving cream After you are done with the first pass, there may be still some residual hair in certain places That's when it's time for the second pass

So you put shaving cream on your face with your hand or you lather up and use the shaving brush and then you cut, this time, across the grain What does that mean? Not against but at a 90 degree angle to what you did before Again, pull your skin tight and shave in the same manner as we did before just at a 90 degree angle Most men are done after that pass but if you have thicker hair or if you want an even better and closer shave, you do a third pass This time, shaving against the grain

When I do this, it cuts my hair below the skin level and even after 24 hours, my face is just as smooth as if I would have just shaved it with an electric shaver I know it sounds too good to be true but my wife is amazed every time she feels my smooth baby butt like skin in my face When you shave against the grain, it can feel more aggressive on your skin and you can also hear the cutting motion more I think it's just because you're literally going against the grain Once you're done with the third pass, it's time to splash your face with cold water

Some people use ice water because they believe it helps your skin to kind of close all the pores and therefore, stop any kind of bleeding I find regular cold tap water is just fine Afterwards, it is very important to add a post shave balm or product Every company that offers shaving creams also has post shave products, some smell a little more the traditional old-school all alcohol, it is not recommended because it dries out your skin Obviously, there are tons of product in all kinds of price ranges and you can learn more about them in our in depth shaving guide

I found that an inexpensive Nivea aftershave balm for sensitive skin is a great product and it doesn't cost much The result of a DE shave is superior to any cartridge razor shave and on par with systems like Supply or Oneblade Some may argue it's not quite as good as shaving with a straight razor but that also takes a lot longer and it's even more technique In my mind, a straight razor is not something I would use on an everyday basis simply because it takes too long It's more something you'd use on the weekends when you want to enjoy the shaving process

So for some common shaving mistakes, please check out this video here And now the big question is how can you achieve that same result of a DE shave just a lot faster? Well, let me share with you my shaving routine which is geared towards the best result in the shortest amount of time First, I start by taking a warm shower not doing any other prep work with towels or just splashing my face Just taking a regular shower the way I would normally already does enough to get my hair in the right condition Two, I apply shaving cream out of the tube with my hands because that way, I don't have to lather up and I don't have to clean the brush and it's super quick

The third step, I use an electric shaver to get rid of all the excess hair in my face This is the equivalent of the first and maybe the second pass but it's a lot faster and you don't have to pay attention to cutting yourself because electric shavers are pretty good that way All you have to ensure is that your electric shaver is meant to get wet because if it doesn't, you have a problem I prefer it to be a wet electric shave compared to a dry electric shave simply because it gets a much closer shave, it does a much better job So I am done with the electric shaver, I simply reapply the shave cream with my hand and go against the grain once

The advantage is that my blades last a lot longer that way because it's just one pass, not two or three Afterwards, I clean up with cold water and add my post shave balm and I can do all of this in about five to six minutes Of course, when you're starting out, it may take you a little longer and this method has a disadvantage that you also have to invest in a waterproof electric shaver which can add two or three hundred bucks to the overall upfront investment but for me, it's totally worth it because it saves me the time and I think it'll be worth it for you too Just calculate how much time you would save over the course of a year, two years, or five years Alright, now you know everything you need to know about how to shave with a de razor in a classic way, as well the time-saving way, if you want to learn more about shaving, check out the shaving guide here

In today's video I'm wearing a combination of a orange salmon colored shirt with a fair isle knit vest in brown I'm combining it with a light beige herringbone tweed jacket and a Prince of Wales check bowtie in Burgundy it's from Fort Belvedere just like the silk wool pocket square which picks up these earthy tones of red Brown green and yellow my pants are mid-brown corduroys and I'm combining them with Fort Belvedere socks in charcoal and orange shadow stripes which from afar creates a look of something brownish which goes well with the pants as well as the olive green Derby shoes but it provides enough contrast and picks up the orange and warmer tones in the other parts of my outfit

Source: Youtube

About umoh

Check Also

How To Buy Smart And Save Your Money

Source: Youtube